The Polish Rail Travel Guide
ABOUT THIS GUIDE
We started the Polish Train Page on the World Wide Web in the autumn of 1995. We frequently received messages from readers who have questions about travelling by train in Poland, and this guide to travelling by rail in Poland was created to help answer those questions and provide general information.
Having travelled tens of thousands of kilometers by rail in Poland and Central Europe since 1990, we have gained some insight into travelling by rail in Poland and hope that we can share some of the things we have learned with others. This guide is targeted at the first-time rail traveller and assumes no prior experience in travelling on European trains. Experienced travellers may also find items of interest, and are encouraged to keep reading!
The goal is to furnish an introduction to the Polish railways. We hope to provide some background information on the system, a general guide to planning and carrying out a railway journey, and details on types of equipment and services that the leisure or business traveller may find useful.
If you have any comments or suggestions on these pages, please feel free to contact us.
GETTING AROUND
For the traveller to Poland, rail travel is one of the best ways to get around the country. There is little domestic airline service, leaving the traveller with the options of rail or road (either by coach or automobile). With the road system still being developed, and the traffic and parking problems that many cities now experience, travel by rail is comfortable and convenient. The railway station is usually located near a city’s center, and is always well-connected to the local transportation system. Most parts of the country can be reached by train. (System map)
So, assuming you make the decision to see Poland by rail, just how do you go about it? Well, follow this guide, and you should be well on your way!
TICKETS
Unless you have a rail pass (see below), you are going to need a ticket. All major stations have ticket offices, and you can make your purchase there. You can also purchase a ticket from the conductor on the train. There is a surcharge for this if the station you left from had an open ticket office. Make certain that you find the conductor (his workplace is in the first carriage) and purchase your ticket before he comes to you, or you may be fined! At most larger stations you can purchase rail tickets using a credit card. However, make sure you line up at a ticket window displaying a credit card logo, as not every cashier can process these transactions.
Polrail Service offers a pre-booking service for travellers living outside of Poland. Tickets and reservations can be booked in advance for trips inside Poland (up to 30 days for PKP InterCity trains, 60 days for Przewozy Regionalne trains), and to/from other countries in the region. Visit the online store for more details.
Before 2001, the PKP was a single operator of several different classes of trains. Tickets were more or less interchangeable. Now there are several operating companies, and you will want to know which type of train and you are travelling on, and who is the operator, so that you may purchase the appropriate ticket (and pay the applicable fare!). Tickets from one operator are not accepted on the trains of another operator, even if you’ve paid a higher fare!
Polish Train Operating Companies:
You will find the following categories of train in Poland:
- Regio or Local train—Pociąg Regio (osobowy). These are local trains that usually make a stop in each town as you travel down the line. This is definitely the slow way to travel, but a good way to meet the local population. Such trains will usually have only second class cars.
- InterRegio train—Pociąg InterRegio. Similar to the TLK Train (below), but operated by Przewozy Regionalne and with a lower ticket price. It will still stop at most moderate-size stations, but does not stop at every station. IR trains have only second class cars and there is no reserved seating.
- RegioExpress train—Pociąg RegioEkspres. Cousin to the InterRegio Train (above), but with nicer equipment. IR trains have first and second class cars and there is the possibility to reserve a seat (online purchases only). RE trains have free WiFi internet and a mini-bar facility.
- TLK train—Pociąg TLK. This class of train serves as a faster way to travel between regions. It will still stop at most moderate-size stations, but does not stop at every station. Most of these trains have first class cars, and there may be a refreshment trolley or buffet car. Seat reservations are mandatory in first class only (from 19.12.2011–29.02.2012 TLK trains "Pobrzeze", "Galczynski", "Kossak" and "Monciak-Krupowki" have mandatory reservations in second class as well—this is a pilot program to alleviate overcrowding); all second class seating is unreserved. Some overnight TLK trains carry couchettes or sleeping cars. [Advice from Polrail Service—PKP InterCity is currently experiencing a shortage of rolling stock, and many TLK-category trains have been shortened, resulting in overcrowding and standing-room-only conditions. If you plan travel by TLK train, we strongly recommend travelling in 1st class.)
- Express train—Pocia˛g ekspresowy. This class of train features the comfortable equipment (only 6-person compartments), few stops, and high speeds. The train will have first and second class cars. Often there will be a buffet car. A supplement must be paid for these trains, and seat reservations are mandatory.
- Express Inter-City/Euro-City trains—Pociąg EIC/EC. EIC/EC trains feature the newest and most comfortable equipment (newer, air-conditioned cars are found on these trains), few stops, and high speeds. The train will have first and second class cars. Often there will be a full-service restaurant car, and there is always at least a buffet car. A higher supplement must be paid for these trains, and seat reservations are mandatory.
Reserved seating is required in both classes in EX-, EIC- and EC-category trains. The reservation must be purchased at the time you buy your ticket. You must also make a seat reservation when travelling by first class in a TLK train (and in second class on the trains mentioned above from 19.12.2011–29.02.2012). A ticket purchased without a seat reservation is not a guarantee that you will have a seat!
If you are looking for a pass-style ticket, you can buy a "System Ticket" (Bilet Sieciowy), which offers the ability to travel on all PKP services. These are available for advance purchase from Polrail Service. Keep in mind, however, that unless you need the flexibility of a pass or will be doing intensive travel, individual tickets for each travel segment will generally work out to be less expensive.
There are several other money-saving, pass-type tickets still available (see link below). The people who sell Eurail passes also have an "Eastrail" pass, which is valid in Poland and several other Eastern European countries.
Bargain hunter’s tip: The various PKP operating companies offer a number of special, reduced-price tickets:
The latest offers include…
TAKING A TRAIN
Assuming you have bought your ticket, you are ready to travel! Since there are so many trains coming and going from stations all the time, you want to make sure you’re in the correct place to board your train. Most stations will have posters prominently posted with train times. Look for white posters for arrival times (marked arrivals [przyjazdy]) and yellow posters for departure times (marked departures [odjazdy]). The departure posters have columns with times, a list of stations the train is going to, and a platform number. Find the time of your train, and then read across to the right to find the platform number in the column marked "Peron".
Follow the signs in the station to the proper platform (peron). Many platforms have two tracks (tor), so don’t get on the first train you see. Look for an overhead sign showing the destination and departure time of the train. If you don’t see one, look for signboards on the side of the coach showing the destination. If all else fails, ask the train conductor or a railroad worker (point to the train and ask "do [name of your destination]?") Sometimes a train will be split along the way, with some of the coaches going to one place, and the rest to somewhere else. Trains of this type will have signs on the side of each section showing the destination of that part of the train.
First class cars also have a yellow stripe above the window. All cars should have a 1 or a 2 by the entry door indicating the class of the car.
If you have a reservation, look at the reservation slip. It will show the car number (wagon) and the seat number (miejsca). The car number will be found in red on a little white sign on the side of the car. Once inside, the seat numbers are posted outside each compartment and also above each seat in the compartment. If someone is sitting in your seat, show them the reservation slip, and likely they will move. If they don’t, ask for help from the train conductor.
Once you find your seat, sit down, and enjoy the ride. The conductor will be around to check your ticket (he will ask "Tickets please" [Prosz" bilety do kontroli]). Only the newest cars have air conditioning, so feel free to open the window for ventilation. (Be considerate of others in the compartment.) There are restrooms at the end of each car. If you’re in a first class compartment, your seat will probably recline a bit if you want to sleep; you’ll find a lever at the side of the seat–pull up and slide the seat bottom forward. (On newer cars simply pull up on the seat front and slide.)
You may see travelling vendors coming around selling food and drink, especially in the larger stations, but it is often a good idea to bring along your own refreshments. Most stations have kiosks from which you can buy food and drink before boarding. If the train has a buffet car, you can also make a purchase there. Keep in mind the safety of your belongings should you leave them in the compartment to go to the buffet car.
There may be announcements on the public address system of the train, but generally you’re on your own to know when to get off the train. It’s often a good idea to make a note of the scheduled arrival time at your destination, so that you will know when you’re getting near. You can usually see the name of the station on a sign as you are pulling into the station. Once the train has stopped, and you are ready to get off, you may have to open the door yourself. Just push down on the latch and push outward on the door. Watch your step, as it may be a long way down!
EATING AND SLEEPING
Some Polish trains feature sleeping cars or food service cars. These cars are run by a division of PKP InterCity called Wars.
Food service is usually in the form of a bar car (wagon barowy). These cars feature a menu of snacks, and usually several hot dishes. There are tables where you can stand and eat (although some cars are now being refurbished with sit-down tables). Some long-distance and international trains feature a full Wars restaurant car (wagon restauracyjny). These feature sit-down table service, with a number of hot and cold meals available from the kitchen. Wars restaurant and bar cars are usually located in the middle of the train. You can review a sample bar car menu.
Sleeping car service is featured on a number of overnight trains. There are two types of railway cars, and three classes of accommodation available for domestic travel:
Couchettes (Wagon z miejscami do leżenia)–Couchettes are a form of second-class overnight accommodations. You travel in what is essentially a coach, with bunks in the compartments. There are six sleeping spaces in each compartment (you can also book 4-person compartments). You will likely find yourself in a compartment with other people who you do not know. The compartments are quite narrow and confined once the beds are folded down and everyone’s luggage is stowed. You will be provided with a pillow, blanket and clean sheets, and you need to make up your own bunk. Couchettes are an economical way to travel, but if you want more privacy or quiet, you might want to consider a sleeping car. (Some TLK trains also carry "cheap couchettes", which cost less, but you do not receive a pillow or bedding—you just have a bunk to lie on.)
Sleeping cars (wagon sypialny)–Sleeping cars are a more comfortable way to travel through the night. The compartments are identical, but there can be 1, 2 or 3 berths to a compartment. As with a couchette, you are only buying a place, so you may find yourself sharing the room with a stranger if you buy a single berth in a 2- or 3-person compartment (when compartments are shared, they are designated as single-sex only—you must choose male or female). You can travel on a 2nd class rail ticket in 2- and 3-person compartments, but travel in a 1-person compartment requires a 1st class rail ticket. (Some international services features additional sleeping car options.)
The sleeping cars are a step up from the couchettes. In the compartments you will find more room for luggage, along with a mirror and a sink. The beds are more comfortable and there is more noise isolation. There are taps for hot and cold water, although although hot water is not always present in one of these cars! Many sleeping cars have been through a rebuilding process recently, with interiors being completely renewed.
In sleeping cars you get a complimentary cup of coffee or tea in the morning, a breakfast snack, and a little kit with a washcloth, soap, and a toothbrush. You may also be able to buy drinks and snacks from the attendant.
Sleeping cars and couchettes will usually be located at either the front or the back of the train. When you board, show your railway ticket and your sleeping car ticket to the attendant, and he will show you to your place. He will keep the tickets until the morning, when he comes to wake you up. The doors between the sleeping cars and the rest of the train will be locked, so you cannot pass through to the coaches.
SLEEPING CAR TICKETS
Sleeping car tickets can be purchased at most major train stations. You should try to purchase tickets several days ahead of time, in order to assure that you will be able to find a place. If you wish to book before coming to Poland, visit our online store for more details.
If you should decide at the last minute that you want to travel in a sleeper, you can always try to buy a space from the Wars car attendant on the train. You may have to pay a surcharge for this.
SAFETY
From time to time, there are questions popping up in the Usenet newsgroups about the safety of train travel in Eastern Europe. These reports range from armed robberies to the use of sleeping gas to knock out passengers so their valuables can be taken. However, such extreme crimes are the rare exception rather than the rule.
Still, when travelling, the use of common sense is always wise. If you are alert to what is going on around you, you will be one step ahead of the potential criminal, who may look for a more unsuspecting victim.
You may also want to keep the following safety tips in mind:
- When moving through stations or boarding trains, always try to keep on arm free. Don’t get weighted down with baggage. A favorite trick of pickpockets is to create a "crush" as people struggle to enter or exit the train.
- Keep your luggage in your line of sight at all times. Do not leave it unattended or where you cannot see it.
- When looking for a place to sit, it might be better to sit with other passengers rather than try to find an empty compartment to sit in by yourself.
- When travelling in a sleeping car or couchette, keep the door to your room locked while you’re asleep.
- Use a money belt or neck pouch to safeguard your money and passport.
We hope that you will find this document useful in planning your rail travel in Poland. If you have any questions or would like to give us feedback, please visit the feedback page.
